本帖最後由 hobart 於 2020-6-15 23:30 編輯
我用既係 參考左Sand wick method, 因為買唔到赤玉土，所以我用冇肥泥炭土，碎水苔，#16 size沙. 用緊一個15cm高既樽黎種，減低因過量水份以引致既根部壞死。低碟有2cm水 乾左再refill. 我一般唔會直接對棵植物加水，外國好多人認為會引致 crown rot (出新芽個位壞死）
以下既文章好推介，我研究左好多唔同既種法同注意既野，發現以下提出既種植方法都有效減少土瓶既死亡
5 alternate methods for growing Cephalotus from Facebook "Little pot of horrors
Cephalotus follicularis is an Australian native pitcher plant that has earned the reputation of being difficult to grow among carnivorous plant growers, beginners and experts alike. I can certainly testify to this reputation having killed plenty of plants during my 35+ years growing experience.
Most plants succumb to a form of root rot, due in part to prolonged wet conditions. I suspect those of us that have killed Cephalotus have been conditioned into growing most Carnivorous Plants the same way we grow Sarracenia, most Drosera and Dionaea.
Cephalotus is different. It is not a plant of bogs but of spring-fed swamps (Lowrie 1998), indicating a continual movement of water. Many experts have suggested their preferred mixes, based on peat moss with added ingredients such as perlite, sand and aggregate (http://www.carnivorousplants.org ... ides/Cephalotus.php).
I have had success growing Cephalotus in “propagation trays” where humidity is high and where the need to sit the plants in water is minimised. This method confirmed to me that stagnant water is the enemy of Cephalotus and that plants require a moist yet aerated mix to remain healthy. As such, I have researched a few alternate growing methods suggested by fellow growers and one concocted by myself. They are detailed below:
Philippe’s method
Philippe Reyter is an experienced grower of Cephalotus and a member of the AusCPS. He has fine-tuned a growing method that suits his conditions. Philippe grows his Cephalotus in 100mm pots filled with peat moss and top dressed with fine granite gravel. His trick is to mound the peat moss into a cone shape and plant the Cephalotus on top of the cone, laying the roots down the sides of the cone. He then presses the roots into the peat before adding the gravel to the height of the crown of the plant. This method keeps the roots moist but highly aerated (Picture 1). Philippe places the pots into a tray of water so that the bottom of the pot is just touching the surface of the water (Picture 2). The height of the water is controlled by an automatic system.
Allen's recommended method
Allen Lowrie has suggested growing Cephalotus using a wick to deliver sufficient moisture and cultivation in a disposable clear plastic drink container as used by McDonald’s and Hungry Jacks. Select an appropriate sized dwarf pot, about 85mm in diameter, that fits into the clear cups, leaving the pot suspended about 5cm above the bottom of the clear cup. A cotton wick is inserted into the bottom of the pot so that it touches the bottom of the clear cup. The pot is filled with 100% peat moss before the Cephalotus is planted. The clear dome that comes with the disposable cup may be used to increase the humidity around the plants and minimize transplanting shock.
The theory behind this method is the controlled delivery of water via the wick. The water reservoir should not be higher than the bottom of the pot. This method also has the advantage of longer periods between watering (Pictures 3 & 4).
Vertical wall
I have seen on a few Carnivorous Plant forums where Cephalotus has been grown vertically on a rigid structure with either overhead watering or watering via a collection tray. I have adapted this method to a suspended vertical wall with overhead watering. I use a rigid plastic drainage cell filled with Sphagnum moss. One side is backed with plastic cord-flute to contain the Sphagnum moss. In the cells, I have planted small plants randomly. The vertical wall is watered twice a day. Excess water is allowed to drain freely. Cephalotus grow well in Sphagnum moss, provided is not too wet. This system prevents the Sphagnum moss from becoming too wet and provides for an interesting aspect for growing these plants (Picture 5 & 6). I have hung this setup with my Nepenthes to take advantage of the higher humidity in the greenhouse.
Sand wick method
Due to my space constraints, I developed a method that allows me to grow Cephalotus in small pots along with my other “bog” growing plants. I start with a 12cm tall plastic pot. I place a small amount of Sphagnum moss in the bottom of the pot and then fill the pot with washed river sand to 2-3cm from the top. I then fill the pot to the rim with 100% peat moss. Cephalotus plants are then potted into the peat moss layer. The Sphagnum moss is used to prevent the sand from washing out of the bottom of the pot. The reason for filling the middle of the pot with sand is to act as an internal wick and control the amount of water that reaches the peat layer, in much the same way as sand at a beach wicks up the ocean water to a point slightly above the ocean water level. My theory is the sand will deliver a reduced but continual amount of moisture to the peat layer, keeping it moist but not wet.
LECA method
I have seen on the Cephalotus Page on Facebook some growers growing their plants in 100% LECA (Light Expanded Clay Aggregate). LECA is a stable and relatively inert product often used in hydroponics. LECA is porous and absorbs an amount of water and nutrient in much the same way as a sponge. Excess water drains freely. Plants may then be grown using the tray method with a water level two to three centimetres from the bottom of the pot. From initial reports, Cephalotus thrives using this method provided it receives occasional foliar fertilization to supplement the lack of soil nutrients. It is crucial to maintain very high levels of humidity until the root system establishes itself among the LECA pebbles (Picture 8).
Cephalotus follicularis is a wonderful carnivorous plant that should be in every collection. Unfortunately, it has attained a reputation for being temperamental and prone to sudden death, usually a result of poor soil moisture/aeration ratios. In cultivation, Cephalotus require good light levels, air movement and humidity but absolutely require a moist and very aerated soil composition. The methods mentioned above all promote highly aerated soils yet deliver controlled amounts of water to the roots. These methods are worth trying to find the one method that works best for you.
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